Day 13 - Golden Waters

Following the indications given to us by Ras, with alluring promises of finding a “golden river” and “the best fountain in the universe!”, today we go off on a trek to explore the valley below the town of Pitres, up in the heart of the Alpujarras. Here, ancient trees and stone-built settlements cling to the side of the mountain, their roots entwined in the history of the Alpujarras... When the Moors were beaten out of Spain and had to leave the famous final bastion of the Alhambra in Granada, their king begged to be given some land for his people to take refuge in. They were granted the Alpujarras. Life must have been hard in this arid, extreme-weathered series of peaks and valleys, but the Moors built these houses and irrigation systems that have stood the test of time – long after the inhabitants themselves were finally thrown out of Spain by the Reyes Católicos. How much the Catholic Isabel and Fernando have influenced the history of Spain!

For us, after a breakfast with a view, this is a day to explore the Moorish walkways and waterways, to let our footsteps follow those of ancient men and women, drinking from the many water sources dotted along the steep walk.

Starting off in Pitres, we are amazed to come across what is truly a “golden river”:

The mineral content of the water is so high, that the waters are sparkling and all they touch is a rusty golden colour! We slurp some of this metallic water, having been warned to drink only a little as, while beneficial, it can be too much for the organism to absorb...

Our next stop is the old village of Atalbéitar, where every corner of the narrow streets is picturesque and misterious.

While stopping to refresh at the village fountain, a group of men on handsome Spanish-Arab horses ride into the village. Even the few locals all come out to their doors to watch the elegant sight of these noble animals clip-clopping up the cobbled stones.

The horsemen gather in the small village square...

In true AnaD-style, she graciously receives and accepts the men's invitation to ride one of the horses, who is made to dance in the small stone square...

Even Anita wants a go!

We continue our walk following the Aguamarga route, and come across a truly fantastic fountain. This water is naturally carbonated, and sometimes bubbles and spits as it flows. Today it is calm, but when we try it.... wow! It's like drinking soda water, incredibly refreshing, and the taste it leaves behind just makes you want to drink more and more....

Danny feels totally connected with this place:

We fill up our bottle with this special water that comes from the guts of the earth, and continue down to reach the village of Ferrirola. Another amazingly picturesque little village, from where we make our way back up the valley along the other route which we have been told is even more beautiful. Every corner of the camino is a discovery!

We soon come across what is called the Era del Trance, which is a stone-paved (restored) old thrashing circle, which hangs on the side of the mountain, and where one can imagine women some would call witches gathering under the moon... This is magical...

The stone Era del Trance in its setting:

One feels at home in this witches' land:

Up the path, and at the only crossroads where we could have got lost, the five horsemen reappear and point us in the right direction - synchronicity! We find a beautiful spot in the cool forest by the flowing golden river and devour the picnic Danny prepared earlier... Yum!

You will be glad to know this is an area where humans and nature interact beautifully - although we did find the odd bits of rubbish, which seasoned greenhearts cannot help but retrieve!

Back up where we started, after jumping into every stream along the way, and as we leave Pitres, the horsemen appear once more to wave us goodbye as we drive away...

In the neighbouring valley of Poqueira, we find an ice-cold beer and reflect on the magical day we have enjoyed...

"Ooooh, that is divine..."

After filling up our water tanks with the famour Bubion water, we make our way back to Pixieland for yet another fab shower!